As I drove through Remagen, following the curves of the Rhine, something on the hillside caught my eye. To my left stood a small fairytale castle, with towers and arches that seemed more suited to a storybook than an ordinary weekday drive.

Curiosity won immediately. I pulled over at the next opportunity, determined to find out what this mysterious “castle” really was.

As it turns out, the building wasn’t a castle at all. It was the Apollinaris Church, surrounded by former Franciscan monastery buildings and a peaceful garden that overlooks the Rhine in one of the most breathtaking panoramas you can imagine. The monastery itself was home to the Franciscan order until 2006 and is now used by another religious community — but the spirit of quiet devotion still lingers in the air.

St. Apollinaris received its current name at the beginning of the 15th century from the relics of St. Apollinaris. It is not known exactly how long they have been there, but most likely since the last decades of the 14th century.

A Church That Looks Like a Castle

The Apollinaris Church is one of those places where architecture and landscape seem to have conspired to create something magical. Its neo‑Gothic towers rise above the vineyards and treetops, giving it that castle‑like appearance that first caught my attention. Up close, the details are even more striking: pointed arches, delicate stonework, and a sense of verticality that draws your eyes upward.

The church was built in the 19th century on the site of an older chapel dedicated to St. Apollinaris, the patron saint of the region. Inside, the walls are adorned with stunning frescoes created by members of the Nazarene art movement — warm, expressive, and deeply spiritual.

There were pilgrimages to St. Apollinaris and to the 14th-century sarcophagus in the crypt, where the main relic is kept to this day.

A Garden With a View

What makes this place unforgettable, though, is the setting.  

The church is surrounded by a garden that feels almost monastic in its calmness — quiet paths, old trees, and benches perfectly placed for contemplation. And then there’s the view: the Rhine stretching out below, winding its way between hills and vineyards, with barges gliding slowly along the water.

It’s the kind of view that makes you pause, breathe a little deeper, and feel grateful for the unexpected detours in life.

A Place of Peace Above the River

Even though the monastery buildings are no longer home to the Franciscans, the entire complex still radiates a sense of serenity. There’s something grounding about walking through a place where generations of monks once lived, prayed, and tended the land. You can almost feel the rhythm of their days lingering in the stones and pathways.

For visitors, the Apollinaris Church offers a moment of stillness — a chance to step away from the busy Rhine valley below and into a world shaped by faith, art, and nature.

The St. Apollinaris relic

Only assumptions can be made about the origin of the relic. They probably come from the Benedictine Abbey of Siegburg, which bequeathed one of its precious relics to its provost founded in 1117 on today’s Apollinarisberg. The Siegburg Benedictines looked after the old Apollinaris Church until 1793.

At the end of 2006, the Franciscan monks left Mount Apollinaris and the “Gemeinschaft der gekreuzigten und auferstandenen Liebe” (Community of the crucified and risen love”) and took over the pilgrimage. On the first pilgrimage day of the great Apollinaris pilgrimage in 2007, Bishop Dr. Reinhard Marx commissioned the new community on the mountain to restore the old traditions.

A Worthwhile Stop Along the Rhine

If you ever find yourself driving through Remagen, don’t just admire the “castle on the hill” from afar. Take the time to drive up the winding road, explore the grounds, and soak in the view. Whether you’re drawn by architecture, history, or simply the beauty of the Rhine, the Apollinaris Church is a place that rewards curiosity.